Monsieur Henri

Something was missing in my life before I went to Monsieur Henri, and it was this: a cave à vin that feels a bit like a messy 2 a.m. bar. Why has no one else thought of this, Paris? You get all the good-wine-and-plate-of-fromage perks of a cave, but under the cover of dark lighting and with music. On the right night I reckon you could even start a dancefloor in there. Glasses of wine start from 5€ and bottles from around 24€ (including corkage). Monsieur Henri is open 18h – 1h30 every day except Sunday. You can find Monsieur … Continue reading Monsieur Henri

Paris Breizh

I have always been very suspicious of savory pancakes. Especially tuna ones. Sweet pancakes are the stuff of childhood dreams, but throw an unexpected bit of fish in there and the whole thing becomes a briny, spongy disaster. One of my colleagues just saw my face while I was writing the above and thought I looked so troubled, she asked if anything was wrong. Well, tuna pancakes; that’s what wrong. Anyway, as you can imagine, crêpes of all varieties are pretty popular in Paris, and I’ve been making an effort to come to terms with the fact that a lot … Continue reading Paris Breizh

A la Biche au Bois

The food here is how I imagine French business lunches used to be in the seventies. Every time you think it might be over, another course pops out, and you emerge a few hours later, groggily wondering how you drank a bottle of wine each, unsure whether you’re ashamed or proud that you found space for the entirety of an ile flottante at the end of it. Having said that, if you know someone in town for a short time, take them here. In one sitting my brother-in-law ticked pâté, steak-frites, cheese and crème brulée off his list of Paris … Continue reading A la Biche au Bois


At Kamelo, it’s 5 euros for an enormous glass of red, white or rosé wine, called vin piscine. At first I was suspicious that it was called this because the wine was so dodgy it would taste like chlorine, but, no, it turned out that glass was the size of a swimming pool. For 5€. If you have too many vin piscines, you can soak it all up with mini-burgers, baked camembert or charcuterie plates served with entire baguettes. But all you really need to know is, it’s 5€ for a giant glass of wine. You can find Kamelo at … Continue reading Kamelo

Imperial de Choisy

C introduced me to Imperial de Choisy, and it’s since become our go-to on nights when coming up with something to eat for dinner, let alone cooking it, is all too much. It does a delicious spicy, fried soft-shell crab (14€) to start, and the best prawn wonton soup (9€) I’ve ever had. Apparently other things are equally good, but I am invariably too tired to branch out and, really, those two dishes nail it every time. For nights when even holding a conversation is too much, they have TVs mounted on the wall, playing a variety of intriguing Chinese … Continue reading Imperial de Choisy

Végé Saveurs

Vege Saveurs gets an honoury mention for not only being one of Paris’ rare vegetarian restaurants, but also for being the only place I have seen in Paris that serves fake meat substitutes. We had ‘beef’ in black bean sauce (7€) and noodles with ‘ham’ (6€). I don’t understand that combo either, but it definitely tasted like ham. The best thing by far was the vegetarian nems (4.50€), which were fried, crispy, golden and delicious. Végé Saveurs is open from 11h30 – 14h30 and 18h30 – 22h30 every day except Sunday. You can find Végé Saveurs at 29, rue de … Continue reading Végé Saveurs


As it was a hot summer evening, C and I ordered a pizza and a salad to share, and asked to sit outside with a cold beer each. The food was served promptly, with each dish evenly divided between our two plates; half a pizza and half a salad on each. No awkward, all plates in the middle sharing, and no polite standoff for the last morsel of food. Can all shared dishes be served this way? The pizza was crisp around the crust with puddles of oozing cheese in the middle and as delicious as homemade wood-fired pizza always … Continue reading Pomodoro